Swim bladder disease, also known as floating disorder or swim bladder disorder, is a health condition that affects the swim bladder of fish (a small air-filled sack that helps some bony fishes swim) [1]. It is not exactly a single disease but a complication that interferes with the buoyancy control of the fish, affecting its ability to maintain the current water depth [1, 2].
Although it can occur in any species of tropical aquarium or ornamental pond fish [1], it is specifically prevalent among the following:
Fishes more likely to get it |
|||
Betta | Cory Catfish | Damselfish | Oscar |
Goldfish | Barb | Dwarf Gourami | Platyfish |
Molly | Clownfish | Discus | Pleco |
Guppy | Clown Loach | Lionfish | Silver Dollar |
Cichlids | Zebra Danio | Minnows | Wrasse |
Compression of swim bladder from the surrounding organs, like:
An injury from a fight, or a hard blow that hurt the fish caused by hitting an object in the aquarium [1].
Parasitic or bacterial infections, causing inflammation of the swim bladder [1].
Elevated nitrate levels may fuel the growth of algae and affect the swim bladder of fish [1, 3]
Rare birth defects in which the symptoms occur at a young age [1].
The affected fish will typically display visible signs like a bloated belly or curved spine and abnormal swimming positions [1, 2]. The often-swollen appearance of the fish may lead the owners to confuse between a swim bladder and dropsy, but the latter is characterized by a pinecone-like appearance of the fish due to the scales sticking out.
The swim bladder disorder can also be identified by the following behavioral symptoms, with the fish:
Some possible preventive measures, in addition to avoiding overfeeding, include:
Aquarium care
Fish care
It is recommended to talk to a vet first as he can recommend the proper treatment measure after evaluating the symptoms and the cause of the disease. Common treatment options include:
Avoiding Feeding the Sick Fish
Your vet may recommend avoiding feeding the sick fish for as long as three days and raise the temperature of aquarium water to 80°F, leaving the fish in it throughout the treatment process [1]. On the fourth day, you may feed the fish with cooked, skinned peas [1]. Frozen peas can be used after microwaving or boiling and skinning [1].
Reducing the level of water
Reducing the water level helps the fish to swim around in the tank easily [1]. If the tank has a strong current, reduction in water level will assist in lessening water flow while the sick fish is being treated [1].
Hand feeding the fish
If it has serious buoyancy problems and cannot move properly, you may hand feed it by holding the food between your forefinger and thumb in the water, allowing it to nibble away [1, 5].
Adding aquarium salt
If you suspect the swim bladder disorder is caused by an injury, then add some aquarium salt or Epsom salt (1/8 of one teaspoon for every 5 gallons) to the water while keeping the temperature between 78° F and 80° F [1, 6].
If the above treatment measures do not successfully lessen the disorder, inform your veterinarian immediately. Aside from the typical symptoms of swim bladder disorder, if the fish displays signs of infection like lack of appetite, shaking, and clamped fins, the vet may prescribe broad-spectrum antibiotics including Maracyn 1 and Maracyn 2 [1, 6].
While the swim bladder disease can typically be cured by following the course of treatment mentioned above, in severe cases (bacterial or parasitic infections causing complications), it can be fairly difficult to treat [1, 7]. Without prompt care, it may prove to be fatal. Euthanasia may be a humane option if your fish has little chances of recovery [1], But make sure to talk to a vet before taking any decision.
According to many fish keepers, it is not contagious but factors like aquarium water quality, nitrate levels, and temperature can increase the chances of swim bladder disorder in other fish of the tank [8].